If you were to ask a seasoned collector to name the most innovative and historically important watchmakers of the 20th century, the name Eterna would undoubtedly be on that list. This is not a brand that simply assembled watches; they were true pioneers, responsible for technical breakthroughs that fundamentally changed watchmaking forever. Their most famous contribution? The Eterna-Matic system. In 1948, Eterna introduced a five-ball-bearing mounting for the automatic winding rotor, a design so brilliant and efficient that it drastically reduced friction and wear, becoming the new industry standard. The five dots of the Eterna logo are, in fact, a tribute to this revolutionary invention.
In 1956, to celebrate a century of watchmaking excellence, the brand launched a special collection to showcase their technical prowess and elegant design: the Centenaire. As the name implies, this was a celebratory line, representing the very best Eterna had to offer. These were watches built not just for the moment, but for the ages, combining the groundbreaking Eterna-Matic movement with svelte, sophisticated cases and dials. They were, and remain, a high-water mark for the brand.
This particular Centenaire from the 1950s is a stunning and wonderfully preserved example of why this line is so revered. It is the epitome of timeless dress watch design. The 34mm case, featuring a stainless steel back and a gold-capped top with elegant, beveled lugs, strikes the perfect balance between presence and refinement. Its warm gold tone provides a beautiful frame for the clean, off-white dial. The dial itself is a masterclass in minimalist elegance, with sharp, applied dagger indices and classic dauphine hands. The signature five-dot Eterna-Matic logo sits proudly below 12 o’clock, a subtle nod to the revolutionary technology beating within.
And what a movement it is. This watch is powered by the Eterna-Matic Caliber 1428U, a member of a legendary family of thin, robust, and highly accurate automatic movements. It is a direct descendant of the technology that put Eterna on the map, a beautiful piece of in-house Swiss engineering that runs as smoothly today as it did more than sixty years ago.